Sambalpuri Saree – Invincible in Style & Design

By Srikanta Mohanty: Although steeped in poverty and backwardness, Sambalpur has always stayed the treasure island of art and culture. In the past it has emerged as a center for excellence in craftsmanship and artistic pursuits. Sambalpuri saree is a class apart with its distinctive style in weaving and uniqueness in design. In the seventies and eighties, eyes of the onlookers stared in curiosity as Late Prime minister Indira Gandhi started wearing them on different occasions. Although, initially the trade of such sarees suffered a lot, the days in late eighties and nineties brought good news for the weavers’ families.

“The designs are simply divine. The exclusive combination of Shanka (Conch), Chakra (wheel), and Phula (flower) is truly gifted. The traditional craftsmanship is undoubtedly unrivalled. ‘Sambalpuri sarees’ have forever expressed motifs of culture never borrowing ideas in design and quality from the west. The weavers’ families have suffered a lot to bring the designs and their work to this height.”-Says Snehalata Patttajoshi, who originally hails from Sonepur-an area adjacent to sambalpur.

Baandha, as the style of craft is originally known, gives a rich diversity of flora and fauna in the designs.  Literally with wealth of images like flower shells impressive landscapes and richly carved images have stayed irresistible attractions in the fabric and designs of the sarees.  Using the traditional methods, Baandha fabric is created making use of a technique called ‘tie-dye’. The great quality of this kind of design is it always gives rich expression to exclusive set of impressive drawings, models, and figures that literally bring appreciation even at a casual glance. With these imaginative and multipurpose techniques, the craftsmen have always brought in to existence most multihued designs, samples, and pictures, which have invited the attention and appreciation of the entire world.

“Legend has it that the craftsmen of this art migrated from northern India, following the defeat of Chouhan Empire by the Moguls in 1192 A.D. It flourished in Western Odisha suffering from many adversities. The reasons for which it has reached peak of popularity are unconditional support from the sons of soil and authenticity in giving the original designs”-says Snehasis Meher- a student in Utkal University and a native of Sambalpur.